If you are about to embark on changing the coil packs, spark plugs and perhaps the PCV valves on your DB9, it’s always comforting to know you have all the tools to do the job BEFORE you start. It’s really frustrating to be halfway into a task and find out you are stuck since you don’t have the right do-dad. The DB9 isn’t quite as simple as changing the plugs and coil on an old Chevy small block V8, and you’ll be twisting the spanners for hours just to get near the plugs and coils.
You might want to check out these previous posts if you haven’t already:
- Lumpy Idle / Misfire – what causes it and how to identify it
- The Parts required to change the Coil Packs and Spark Plugs
I might recommend you watch my video below to get a quicker sense of the tools needed, but here is the list for your inspection.
If you are a bit of a do-it-yourselfer you’ll probably have most of these tools already, but I had to get myself a 1/4″ drive torque wrench and a few adapters to be able to properly tighten the very low torque 3 Nm bolts and nuts. Always room for more tools in the toolbox (“But Honey, I _needed_ that new wrench)!
- 3/8″ drive 5/8″ Spark Plug Socket
- 3/8″ drive Universal Joint Socket (definitely needed for several spots)
- 1/4″ drive 7mm 6-point socket
- 1/4″ drive 8mm 6-point socket
- 3/8″ t0 1/4″ drive adapter
- 1/4″ to 3/8″ drive adapter
- T20 Torx Bit – 1/4″ drive
- T30 Torx Bit – 3/8″ drive
- T50 Torx Bit – 3/8″ drive
- 3/8″ drive extension – 6″ long
- 3/8″ drive extensions – 3″ long – 2 of them. You’ll need 2 to build the longer extension in a low clearance spot
- 3/8″ drive ratchet
- 1/4″ drive ratchet
- 15 mm box end wrench (to hold the nuts on the cross member bolts)
- 13 mm box end wrench (to disconnect the battery terminal)
- 8 mm box end wrench (for a few various nuts and bolts along the way)
- 1/4″ drive Nut Drive Handle to make removing and installing some bolts go faster
- 1/2″ or 3/8″ Torque Wrench capable of 50 Nm. Used to torque the cross member bolts.
- 1/4″ Drive Torque Wrench with a range to go from 3 Nm to 20 Nm. This will be used for most of the torqueing. I had to buy one of these, but the good news was they are inexpensive, as little as $30 from Amazon.
- Flat Blade Screw Drivers (assorted sizes) for various tasks (hoses, clamps, etc.)
- Pliers (to squeeze the water pump clamps)
- OBDII Code Reader to clear the P codes that will be generated and to check the misfire monitors after we are done. See my blog on using an OBDII code reader with your Aston Martin DB9.
- Sharpie Marker and piece of cardboard (to organize the removed fuel injectors and spark plugs)
- Oiling can to lubricate bolts as you get them ready to reinstall
- Inspection light
- 409 Spray Cleaner (or whatever you use for wiping down parts you’ve removed)
- Rags or Paper Towels to wipe down parts, etc.
Check out my video going over the tools in a little more detail.
3 thoughts on “Tools Required to Change the Coil Packs and Spark Plugs on an Aston Martin DB9”
I noticed a warning light on the dash panel of my 05 DB9 stating a dipping light was out. Had my wife look and the left driving light is out. Any tips on replacing the bulb _ it looks complicated. Not sure if you’very done a video on that.
Hi Caryl. Havent done that myself yet, but I think most of what you need is on the site. There is an access panel in the left front fender well. I don’t think you’ll need to remove the fender liner, just the acess panel. Also checkout my videos on removing the fender liner and ‘a tour inside the front left wheel well’ since you’ll get fairly clear footage of what you will be working on. Let me know how it goes.
Very clear topics …many thanks for your videos.
My question is:
Did you also replaced the exaust manifolds and primary cayalyst in order to avoid future misfires?
If so which one you’d choose?