Air Horns – where are they ?

I have just been sorting out a problem with the air conditioning on Aston 2209 and during the investigations I realised whilst removing a plastic cover to check the condenser radiator I was about to expose the Air Horns. It jogged my memory of a comment posted by someone on my Blog about changing the interior lighting entitled “Let there be light ! ”



Found these videos very knowledgeable and helpful.
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into them it is well appreciated.
Is there any videos out there for changing the hooter on a 2008 DB9 coupe? Haven’t looked to do it yet but my hooter definitely needs to be replaced


Hi Keith, If you’re still having problems with your hooter then the following may be of interest. Your hooter is located behind the plastic panel under the slam panel as shown here.

I would first check the fuse in the Engine bay fuse box it is fuse F11 (15A) the extract from the manual below shows where the fuse box can be found.

You can also follow the circuit diagram below if you need to check if there are other possible problems. I would however suggest that if the fuse is not blown then the problem most probably lies with the air horns themselves.

The video included in this article shows where to find the air horns and how to remove them. You can test the horns once removed by connecting them to an external 12V battery if the air horns work when connected to the battery then you have a fault in the Aston’s wiring/systems so you must use the information herewith to try to trace the fault.

Take a look at the short video at ……

Hope this is of assistance.

Mike (Aston 2209)

Rear Subframe Surface Rust Descaling

Some of you may have seen one of my previous Blog on changing the rear lower wishbone assembly and at the time I commented on the condition of the rear subframe. It had quite a lot of flaky surface rust that was both unsightly and could lead to more aggressive corrosion in later life for Aston 2209. At the time I wanted to undertake cleaning up the subframe but since it was in the winter and there was a lot of damp atmosphere from day to day, I decided to leave it until the summer. However here we are in May and we have just gone through a really long period of dry weather with warm temperatures and seeing as we are also in “lockdown” due to the Coronavirus it seemed like a good time to do the job.

I didn’t have an air operated needle de-scaler so turned to ebay to see what I could find. I have seen many large industrial de-scalers in action in steelwork fabricators and on construction sites during my career as an engineer but I was looking for something more compact that I could use to get into the more confined spaces of the subframe.

This is what I found and maybe electrical versions of the unit are available for those of you who might not have compressed air on tap.

Air operated tools are always very noisy so you will need suitable ear defenders and as we are going to be loosening rust you will need good goggles.

The winter brings snow and ice and the Local Council spreads salt on the roads to get rid of the ice to keep people safe. Unfortunately, there is a price to pay in terms of the effects on the underside of our cars. Prolonged exposure to the salt and general wet conditions of winter start the corrosion process that in years gone by used to see cars become rust boxes in just a few years. Better quality steels, modern treatment techniques and better chassis design now means that cars don’t rust anything like they used to through the 60s and 70s. That said once your car is over ten years old, I believe it’s time to start inspecting the underside for the start of any corrosion and like anything catching it early is the key. As you will see this is what we are up against.

Rear roll bar mounting before descaling

Aston 2209 is 15 years old so is well into the time where it is necessary to check and treat any offending corrosion. It’s not difficult to keep on top of the corrosion as long as you are prepared to put the time in to descaling and painting. Due to the amount of parts both attached to the rear subframe and the openness of the subframe structure spray painting is not an option. Also, as the subframe is in place you cannot access the top of the subframe but by using a mirror I could see that fortunately there was little if any corrosion in areas that would be difficult to get at with a small paint brush.

After descaling

After using the de-scaler you get a good rust-free surface but this still needs to be worked on further to get rid of any remaining fine rust colouration and to get a good surface for the paint to key to. After wire brush polishing you can get a surface finish as here that is ready for the paint to be applied.    

After wire brush polishing
After wire brush polishing

I used smooth finish (it also comes in a hammered finish) black Hammerite paint that I’m sure is well known to all but for those who don’t know of it, this is what they say on their website – quote “Smooth Black Hammerite ( Direct to Rust metal paint, comes in various colours and tin sizes. Providing up to 8 years protection from the elements, it can be painted straight onto any metal or rusted surface without the need for primer. This tough paint is simple to use and comes with on pack full preparation, usage and cleaning instructions. Perfect for sealing those rust prone areas of bodywork”. – unquote.

When you use the paint you cannot clean your brushes in ordinary terps or white spirit you need to buy the thinners/solvent which cost about the same as the paint itself, or you do like I did and buy some cheap brushes off ebay and bin them afterwards.

The finish painted subframe is pictured below and I will be checking it on a regular basis probably once a month to give any additional feed-back through the Blog if necessary. If you hear nothing then there is no problem !!!

Finish Painted
Finish Painted

There is a video to accompany this Blog at enjoy !!”

Don’t slam your DB9’s Bootie – Changing the Boot Lid Gas Strut on an Aston Martin DB9

Ever since I bought Aston 2209 the boot has effectively closed under free fall. We have of course learnt to be careful with it, but after a couple of frighteners where we have dropped it and it has slammed shut I decided for the small amount of money involved it was crazy not to resolve the problem. The potential for breaking the rear glass really exists. The boot lid is supported on gas struts that are part of the hinge assembly but once the gas has started to leak away they loose their effectiveness. Even when you have removed an old gas strut you will find it very hard to depress so you might think there is nothing wrong with it. Unfortunately there is, so bite the bullet and buy a couple of new ones. Continue reading “Don’t slam your DB9’s Bootie – Changing the Boot Lid Gas Strut on an Aston Martin DB9”

Loud knock from the rear – on acceleration and braking

So, either it was a coincidence or something to be remembered in the future. Just before Christmas I washed Aston 2209 and put it in the garage where it stayed for nearly 3 weeks over the Christmas / New Year period. In the New Year we decided to go to Anglesey for a day trip and a walk along Newborough Beach to Llanddwyn Island followed by an early evening dinner at The Oyster Catcher in Rhosneigr.

I got in the Aston and selected “R” and didn’t move …… strange I thought, so I gave it a little more right foot and with a loud bang/crack we were moving. I put it down to the brake pads and discs/rotors being stuck and thought no more about it. I guessed that the wheels having just been washed and rinsed off meant that there would still be water between the pads and the discs/rotors. As you will have probably seen when you leave a car for a few days following rain or washing a light rust discolouration can take place on the surface of the discs/rotors which disappears as soon as you start driving. Aston 2209 had been put away with wet discs/rotors and stood for about 3 weeks so I suspect that there was a bond created between the pads and the discs/rotors.

So off we went on our day out but it was soon apparent that something wasn’t quite right. As we pulled out onto the main road there was quite a loud knock that sounded like something banging against the underbody of the car. You start to think of all the worst-case scenarios …. Is it gearbox? Is it the differential? What is it?.  I drove on carefully with no other noises and in fact kicked the Aston down and accelerated along the country lane and nothing, no noise at all. I then had to stop when a set of traffic lights further along the road changed to red, as I started to brake we heard the knock again. When we set off again “knock” ….. I was now convinced that we most probably had a bush that had worn and quickly found that as long as I didn’t accelerate hard from rest or brake hard the Aston drove perfectly so we continued on and had a fantastic day.

A few days later I got Aston 2209 up on the lift/ramps to see what the problem was. Out came a couple of levers to start levering all the ball joints and bushes on both sides of the rear end with a bias towards the LHS as that was where the sound seemed to be coming from. I missed the offending bush the first time around and wrongly came to the conclusion that it must be something else.

I have been wanting to change the differential oil for a while and as I had everything already bought and available I thought I would do it now to rule out any damage that might be evident in the differential. My thinking was that if the knock was coming from the differential then when I dropped the oil there might be some metal bits on the magnetic drain plug. After the oil had fully drained I checked the filter which was relatively clean and there was no evidence of anything metallic on the drain plug.

A warning when undoing the filling plug
take care you don’t do as I did and damage
the oil cooler fins as the filling plug comes
loose. I had the socket on a breaker bar and
the filler plug being quite tight caused me to
swing the breaker bar into the cooling fins,
fortunately no real damage done.
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 20200115_135316-2.jpg

On the second pass of playing with the levers I found the offending bush. What I found was not actually a damaged bush but in fact a fractured outer bush mounting in the lower wish bone suspension arm on the LHS. The bottom outer bush mounting in the arm was completely cracked across its width as you can see in the photo indicated by the arrow.  

The 3D drawing extracted from my workshop manual shows a good view of the rear subframe and the various suspension item locations. I have highlighted the Lower Wishbone.

Once the mounting bolts had been removed from the lower wishbone it was a simple manoeuvre to lever it downwards and out.

With the wishbone out it was easier to see the extent of the fracture that extended the full width of the bush mounting area.

The bush is an interference press fit into the wishbone arm at the outer end where the wheel hub mounts. Having been cracked the required interference fit is compromised and the bush is able to move backwards and forwards when mounted in the car and as it moves from one extent of travel to the other it “knocks” against the body of the wheel hub. The bush was very easily tap out.


The new wishbone comes complete with factory pressed fit bushes already in place. Installation of the new wishbone arm is a direct reversal of the removal sequence however there is one aspect that must be adhered to. Rubber bushes have a predetermined operating range from the as installed position. Bushes are not a rotating joint, the bush is designed to allow say a defection / part rotation of  +/- 10-20 deg dependant on the characteristics of the rubber and the application.

Aston require that on assembly none of the bolts are torqued up until the ride height is set and to do this requires movement of the suspension to simulate the weight of the car + passengers + Fuel + luggage.

Ride height measurements
How do we do this? In my case I
have the advantage of a car lift so
what I can do is lower the car so
that the disc/hub rests on wooden
blocks on the floor thus
compressing the suspension as
though the wheel was on the
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 2020-03-03_22-09-11-1.jpg

If you don’t have the benefit of a car lift and you are on axle stands you can use a jack from the floor under the disc/rotor but take care that the disc does not rotate. Apply the handbrake particularly is your Aston is a manual drive as you will not have the benefit of the gearbox being locked in park.

So the car has to be lowered onto my wooden blocks until we reach a normal ride height at a hub centre to underside of rear bodywork dimension of between say 360 – 390mm, but these dimensions are based on the following according to my manual.

“2 x 68kg people in the car + 14kg luggage in the boot (trunk) + a full tank of fuel” ….. really !!!!

I’d better start bringing people in off the street and weighing them as I weigh about 85kg so that would give an uneven weight distribution, besides I can’t be in the car and torqueing up the bolts at the same time and I’ve got less than half a tank of fuel in anyway !!!!!!!!!!

Since the height is to be set without being fully loaded I decided that if the dimension was a little higher than the target 276.5mm then it wouldn’t matter too much as there is quite a wide tolerance of +/- 15mm. This dimension is only to set a neutral position for the rubber bushes so they are in their optimum position for least stress during normal running.

With the lower wishbone bolts in place (snug) but not torqued up the bushes will rotate on the bolts to the correct neutral position as the Aston compresses the suspension to the correct ride height as it sits down on the wooden blocks. With the lower wishbone positioned to the ride height the fixing bolts can then be torqued up. If you simply torque up the bolts with the wishbone in the lower position you are effectively fixing the bushes in a very low position. When the rubber of the bush in the wishbone rotates as the car sits down on the suspension it may, as a result, already be at the end of its working limit with just the weight of the car. The reality is that as we drive the bush has to accommodate +/- movements from the norm and if the bush is already at its extreme position it will then be over stressed and lead to premature failure due to the rubber failing.

With everything back together and checked all that remains is to refit the inner wing liner. As it’s still winter and damp, I have decided to defer the surface rust treatment of the subframe until the summer when everything will be a lot drier and more conducive to doing a good job and getting a good result.

Even though I removed the inner wing liner you could do this job leaving it in place. Unfortunately at the time I didn’t know that the nut for the front inner wishbone was captive as it was hidden behind the inner liner. You now know so you can remove the bolt without having to get a spanner on the nut.

A video of the search for the problem is below and includes the steps to do the repair. If you ever have this problem don’t be afraid to handle it yourself as it’s quite straight forward.


Mike (Aston 2209)

**********************For additional interest **********************

I have cut out a section of the Fracture to photograph for analysis by anyone who has the knowledge to do so, feel free to leave comments in the blog.

Mike (Aston 2209)

Bedding in OEM Brake Pads on an Aston Martin DB9 or Vantage

Glowing brake rotor on a DB9

One of the most common maintenance items on any car, the DB9 and Vantage included, is servicing your brakes.   When your service includes either changing the brake pads, the brake rotors, or both, it is necessary to properly ‘mate’ the two components together for optimal performance and, in the case of an Aston Martin, to reduce or eliminate brake squeal. Continue reading “Bedding in OEM Brake Pads on an Aston Martin DB9 or Vantage”

Let there be light !

Since buying Aston 2209, my DB9, in April of 2017 I have always thought that the interior cabin lighting was a little dark. My wife Barbara despite having Satnav in the DB9 and Google Maps on her phone still likes to use a paper map so she also agreed with me that the reading light could do with some improvement.

With the arrival of LED technology options are now available for us to replace existing lamps (bulbs) with LEDs. The good thing is that LEDs are a win win technology using less current and providing a brighter light.

I set out to investigate what was available to me searching Ebay and Amazon under “W3W LED Bright White Car Bulbs” and found that there are many manufacturers available making any number of LED lamps to suit our Astons, however the search only came back with W5W fitting. I not saying the W3W fitting bulbs are not available but my search at the time kept coming back with only W5W and that is what I bought.

In the video the lamp is installed from the back and you must make sure the
angular offset of the mount is pointed to the centre.  
However if you install without removing the rear view mirror or the centre roof lining as I did in the video, the slot arrowed in the head lining ensures the correct orientation of the lamp so the offset is towards the centre. The orientation slot is not there for other lamps.

I also settled on what I considered to be an excellent manufacturer, “Osram”, since most of the items on offer did not give clear indication of the manufacturer. [They’re all made in China anyway!]

As you can see they offer a 6 year guarantee, not that they cost much, I paid £13.83 (approx USD17.00) for two lamps in the pack, however if they give a 6 year guarantee it should be a while before I have replace them.

Power consumption is stated as being 1 Watt each, which is less than the original lamps that are rated at 3 Watts each.  I must admit I was a little concerned when I ordered the lamps particularly in respect of the fittings. However they fit perfectly and I’ll now buy more for the rear cabin lights, the footwells and the boot (trunk).

I wanted to have a “white” light as I believe it gives a modern look – other light colours are available such as Warm Light and colours !!!

Here is a video of the installation of the bulbs for your information.


Mike Aston 2209

How to Remove and Reinstall the Rear View Mirror in an Aston martin DB9, DBS, or Vantage

Whatsa behind me is Not Important!

Watch the clip here on YouTube

A great line proclaimed by ‘Franco’ (played by Raul Julia) from one of my favorite campy car movies or all time ‘Gumball Rally’.   Totally worth watching if you are a car guy/gal since the cars are real and some of the footage is just great.  427 AC Cobra, Jag E Type, Ferrari’s, Porsche’s and more.  You can watch it online from many streaming services like Amazon and YouTube (for just $2.99 USD), etc.

Anyways, back to today’s post on removing the rear view mirror.  Ripping it off like Franco probably isn’t the advisable way to tackle this in an Aston Martin DB9 and I wanted to share how I did it.  There could be any number of reasons to remove it, but for me it was that I wanted to loosen the Alcantra covered ‘Front Heading’ trim piece that spans the width of the front edge of the headliner so that I could remove the entire headliner to be re-upholstered after it started to sag.  You can check out that whole process in my other article here.

Continue reading “How to Remove and Reinstall the Rear View Mirror in an Aston martin DB9, DBS, or Vantage”