There are lots of reasons you might Torque the Wheel Nuts on your DB9, but its anytime you’ve had a wheel removed or perhaps you are getting ready for a track day and should double check they are properly torqued. I can tell you there is absolutely a wrong way to do it – just using an impact wrench and hammering them on until the gun stops turning. Read on to learn the right way.
You don’t need many tools for this task:
22mm or 21mm 6-point hex socket depending which size wheel nuts your car is fitted with.
- 1/2″ drive Torque wrench capable of up to 180 Nm.
- Masking tape (if you have a traditional impact socket set)
Its simple with just a couple of details to follow:
- If you’ve had the wheel off the car, please check out the tips in my other video on Installing a Road Wheel. I think it’s easiest to torque the wheel nuts when the car is firmly on the ground so the wheels can’t spin.
- If you aren’t using a Wheel Saver Socket I’d suggest that you use the masking tape and put a wrap of it around the outside end of the socket where it could possibly touch the rims. This will help protect from scratching the rim.
- Aston Martin warns against tightening the wheel nuts with the wheels hot. For example don’t torque them right after a track day session. They will be over tightened when cooled, and could cause a failure.
- You need to Torque the wheel nuts in TWO (2) phases.
- Phase I – Tighten them all to 80 Nm (60 ft-lbs) in the first step
You need to tighten them following a standard torqueing pattern for a five stud layout – which looks like crisscrossing a 5 point star. If you just tighten them in a circle its possible to misalign the wheel with the hub (bad mojo). Follow the pattern in the attached diagram (it’s easy).
- When tightening, do so in one smooth stroke until the torque wrench just clicks, then move onto the next wheel nut according to the torqueing pattern.
- Phase II – Go over them a second time tightening them to their final spec. The final torque setting is different across three different options. This is clearly spelled out in the Official Aston Martin Workshop Manual (check out what they say here if you like). I think most early cars like mine were fitted with 22mm wheel nuts unless the car had the optional titanium wheel nuts that were an option and/or part of the Sport Pack.
- 22mm wheel nuts – 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)
- Titanium wheel nuts – 150Nm (111 ft-lbs)
- I am nut sure what size the Titanium wheel nuts they reference are. How would you know other than they are very light? Please leave a comment down below if you have optional titanium wheel nuts (for sure) and you can tell me some way to identify them other than ‘feel’. Are they billet?
- 21mm wheel nuts – 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs)
- Note – Aston Martin issued Service Bulletin SB170 in July 2005 noting special Torque settings for 74 cars from VIN 03358 to 03432 – Read the Service Bulletin here]. I think this was the test where they were trying out the new 21mm nuts, so probably cars manufactured in late 2005 (MY 2006) might have started to have 22mm nuts standard.
- A final, final step they talk about in the workshop manual is they want you to check the torque on all wheel nuts after 20 miles of driving. This is a CYA statement I think, who goes back to the dealer after 20 miles?
This is a simple but really important process. I’ve made a quick video so you can see how I did it:
If you are reading this you might also be interested in a few other posts and video’s regarding preparation I’ve done to make sure my tires and wheel are in tip-top shape to reinstall and torque up: